Introducing Nota Bene-Interview with Company President Jennifer Riggs

[LTK] Most podiatrists will agree that the number of hours women trot around the workplace in stilettos and pumps can later cause varying degrees of damage to their posture and foot health. Nota Bene shoes are labeled "biomechanically correct". What exactly does this mean, and what precautions has the Nota Bene line taken towards the podiatric health of modern women?

[J.R.] This is a discussion topic for hours! Where to start. . . . well, literally every design and construction decision in Nota Bene shoes is made to optimize foot health and comfort, without sacrificing beauty. But, let’s start with the language “biometrically or biomechanically correct.” In a nutshell this means making sure our shoes respect the natural shape and size and motion of a real, healthy foot. To list a few examples, our lasts account for the size and shape of real and active women’s feet. It means that buckles, straps, throat lines, ornaments, sling backs. . . etc. are all in the right places to accommodate a foot in motion. It means the insole cushioning is in the right place and working hard to absorb as many of the stresses of walking in heels as possible. It means the heels are well-balanced to distribute weight and forces in as natural a way as possible given their height.

The Nota Bene Ingrid Loafer

Looking more in depth at one of these examples. . . .what do I mean when I say our lasts respect the natural shape and size and motion of a real, healthy foot? First, we use modern anthropometric data to help create our own lasts, the forms over which leather is wrapped to manufacture shoes. A lot of lasts out there are based on OLD information about the size and shape of women’s feet. In fact some lasts are not based on “bio-data” at all – they start with a designer carving wood or “clay” to achieve the desired visual shape – a process devoid of real toes. Instead, we use data from recent studies about the size and shape of women’s feet. Second, we test these lasts to make sure that they allow enough room for toes to walk in happily. Literally, this means we go through a long process of prototyping the last, having real women (not models) wear-test them for 4-6 full days (including walking at least a mile a day in them), making changes based on their feedback, then doing another wear-test to make sure we got it right. We may even take an x-ray to see what is going on inside and help give a better explanation to the last maker.

All of the elements of our shoes/construction have a similar story. Maybe we can touch on some of those later! But you also raise the topic of heels and the damage they can do to women’s posture and foot health.

No heel is “good” for you, simply because the changes that make you look good (taller, chest out, shoulders back, increasing the c curve at the base of your back, ankle / knee flexing hips into a more open angle) can be bad for your over time (more weight on the balls of your feet, throwing hips / knees / ankles out of alignment, shortening your Achilles tendons and calf muscles). At first I wasn’t going to “do” heels because there are so many ways to make flats and low heels beautiful, charming, fresh, and elegant -- and even sexy. But I quickly realized my customers really wanted heels — whatever you may think of our culture’s emphasis on thinness and sexiness, and how we define beauty, and the links between beauty, wealth, and power, we know beauty is highly rewarded, and that confidence can be a self-fulfilling prophecy. If wearing heels makes a woman feel more beautiful, more powerful, more confident, more friendly, she is going to increase her odds of achieving her goals, whatever they may be. And if I make a heel that does that for women while being more comfortable and less damaging than anything else out there, I’m all for that!

So then, given that a high heel is a high heel, and is great culturally/socially for women but not so good biologically, I asked myself how I could make the best of this situation with Nota Bene shoes. The answer was two things: One, we made the heels look as high and feminine as possible, but are as low and stable as possible. Two, we put as much cushioning under the ball of the foot as possible, not only to make it feel more comfortable but also so that that material absorbs some of the stresses of wearing heels – rather than the natural fat pad and the metatarsal heads.

So, bottom line, accommodating lasts, softer leathers, good shock-absorbing and cushioning insoles, well-balanced heels, and rigorous testing and correction are how we look after the podiatric health of our customers.

[LTK] Who exactly is the target customer for Nota Bene shoes?

[J.R.] We said it in our first business plan and we've stayed true to it: “Our customer is an active woman — she might be a marketing executive making a pitch to clients, a community leader running an event, a consultant traversing her fourth airport of the week, a real-estate agent touring new clients. . . Or, she might be your office mate, the one who enjoys walking to work in the mornings.” So a lot of our target customers are professional women who want to look good and feel good in a pair of shoes that will keep up with them all day, but our first emphasis is on active women, i.e. including non-working women who wear our shoes for special events, for traveling, or just because they like how they look and how they feel.

The Nota Bene Amy Slide

[LTK] Could you tell our readers just a bit about the extensive testing that is carried out on the Nota Bena footwear products?

[J.R.] Well, I’ve already mentioned a bit about the fit and wear testing involved in developing our lasts. As well, we have fit and wear testing process with every style/pattern that we make. But first, it is probably a good idea to set up what is “normal” in the industry: foot models, usually a “perfect size 6” try on a pair of shoes, walk around on a platform for 2-4 minutes, and assess whether there are any problems with feel, while the designers and manufacturers look on for obvious problems. If there are problems, corrections are made and there is a retrial. While these people are experts at their job, and thus can make assessments quickly, I didn’t feel comfortable with the process. I couldn’t imagine a “perfect size anything” being a good tester. Feet come in all shapes and sizes; shoes need to fit more than one shape and size. Also, my experience was that a shoe just feels different after 10 minutes, 30 minutes, two hours, or two weeks of wear. As well, you have to get to know how a shoe performs when walking or standing. So I designed a process of wear testing, that involves a range of sizes, using “real” women as opposed to foot models, and that involves wearing the shoes for several weeks, including long days. In some cases, we even do funny things like “the bathtub test” to figure out how well a shoe holds up after getting WET and then going out for a spin around the block.

[LTK] Is there anything particularly special about the sole of a Nota Bene shoe?

[J.R.] Yes! These days just being leather is special, it seems. And at some point, we should talk about “why is leather the ideal outsole material?” The short answer on leather is, leather has the perfect coefficient of friction, and can achieve a very good balance between flex and protection. But in addition to the fact that our soles are leather, Nota Bene outsoles are about 33% thicker than most, but beveled at the edges so as not to look thick and heavy. This not only gives longer wear, but also helps protect feet from heat, cold, or “cobblestones.” Additionally, we use a special finishing process to make sure that the leather is not slick on first wear. It makes them feel like velvet right out of the box.

[LTK] It's not uncommon for designers to have to sacrifice fashion for comfort and vice versa. Very rarely do professional shoes match up to the products of luxury designers. But the Nota Bene line is surprisingly sleek and stylish for a comfort line. Is it difficult to stay on the cutting edge of fashion while remaining loyal to the concept of easy-wieldable footwear?

[J.R.] Yes. . . and no. Personally, I find the idea of “Fashion with a capital F” almost enervating. It can be so fast, and so out of touch with most peoples lives. On the other hand, seeing the unique beauty in something and bringing that quality out to show it in its best light is inspiring and enlivening. This is how I like to think about Nota Bene. We start with the beauty of real, healthy feet – they are truly evolutionary miracles – and create shapes that enhance that beauty. Then we combine that with thinking about the amazing lives of our customers and how that shoe will be worn. We may incorporate other inspirations as well. I’ll never forget coming around the bend of the nature preserve near my home, just after we moved to Wisconsin. It was mid-November, the meadow was absolutely the most glorious gold color, shimmering and pulsing in the sunlight, it was surrounded by trees just showing themselves in their winter grays and blacks, and above it the most intense cerulean sky. It took my breath away, and then dominated my thoughts about color for two seasons.

That said, shoes are accessories to clothing, for the most part. So, we have to be informed about what is going on. As well, fashion seems to have an enormously important role in our consciousness as social creatures. Whether it is some vestigial part of primate clan and tribe definition, or early warning system of predatory approach, or mating ritual, I don’t know. Sometime when I have a spare month, I’d like to research it though! But in any case, it is a strong instinctual part of being human.

Bottom line, it is fun to make shoes that respect the real shape and miracle of feet, and it is fun to participate in the ebb and flow of collective ideas as expressed in fashion! And of course it is a challenge. Otherwise it would be boring.

The Nota Bene Niobe Flat

[LTK] Are there any particular spotlight styles for the Fall 2007 season?

[J.R.] Absolutely! Graceful round toes continue to be an important addition to the closet repertoire. Our new slides Amy and Christine, both on a 1.5” demi-wedge, are adorable and so versatile, both with respect to season/weather and the clothing they complement. Willow and Niobe offer a more dress/formal take to the same idea. Both are great with trousers, capris or gauchos, but because they treat the ankle and arch so gracefully, they create the impression of suppleness and litheness without heel height. As a result women enjoy wearing these lower heels with skirts and dresses of all lengths. Ingrid is yet another round toe that really makes the wearer look graceful and elegant. Perhaps it is no surprise that we have had professional ballerinas choose this one. They recognize the gorgeous organic lines Ingrid helps create in their bodies. For those who love the square toe, both Geena and Katherine create a really special look. Geena, in gold suede in particular, is incredibly versatile while looking unique. This is a signature style goal for us. For a more pointed silhouette Audrey and Rosalind are perennial favorites!

[LTK] Are Nota Bene shoes made to accommodate persons requiring special sizes such as narrow and wide widths?

[J.R.] We are at last pretty close to having “wide widths” available! That said, from the beginning we have designed a range of styles to accommodate a range of foot types. So right now, even without narrows and wides per se, we are able to achieve a good fit for a variety of foot shapes.

[LTK] Evening shoes are the uncomfortable woe of many women. After Nota Bene conquers the office, does the company have any plans to expand and open an evening collection?

[J.R.] Absolutely! We have lots of requests for wedding shoes, and evening shoes; based on reactions to small production runs of a couple styles, we know we can do it. And personally, I’ve never had more fun at weddings, than when wearing my own shoes, and never thinking about aching feet! But that said, it will probably never be our focus. I guess ultimately the market will tell us, but my thinking is that while women spend a lot of money for an event shoe, and probably tell themselves that they will wear them again and again (“They are gold sandals’ or ‘They are black with crystals. I can wear them with anything!”), the truth (at least according to our market surveys) is that event shoes sit at the bottom of the closet, and might get worn to 4-6 times. Unless we get so lucky as to have Cate Blanchett clamoring to wear them on the red carpet, that does not translate to enough attention or value per purchase to create long-term customers. We want customers to wear our shoes every day and talk about them every day.

The Nota Bene Rosalind Pump

[LTK] And lastly, where can customers purchase the fantastic Nota Bene line?

[J.R.] Actually, now that my second baby is just about potty trained, we’re in the midst of an expansion effort with retailers. So, our list is growing weekly. But, in the meanwhile, ask your local independent retailers. We love to work with other small businesses, and have started a number of relationships with retailers because customers brought us to each other. Otherwise, online is a certain way (www.notabeneshoes.com). We have figured out how to help customers achieve fit with a degree of accuracy that surprises even us – even for first time online customers! And we’ll refund your shipping if the shoe doesn’t work for you.